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sabato 18 febbraio 2012

Le "caterinette"

venivano chiamate così a Torino, per la loro santa protettrice Santa Caterina, le sartine, una popolazione  di giovani e meno giovani industriose e laboriose che cucivano i vestiti principalmente alle donne, perchè per gli abiti maschili vi erano i sarti.
Solo le camicie venivano cucite dalle sarte, ma la supremazia del "taglio" era anch'essa maschile.
Nascono come lavoranti in casa dove la gente porta la stoffa e scieglie sui "figurini" i modelli di vestiti che prima semplici diventano mano a mano più sofisticati, infatti esse cucivano abiti da sposa e da intrattenimento.
Pochi i ferri del mestiere, l'indispensabile macchina da cucire, prima quella a manovella poi fece l'apparizione quella a pedali.
questa apparteneva a mia mamma e ci ho cucito anch'io, è ancora funzionante.
Già dai primi del Novecento Torino era capitale della Moda e le sartine avevanoconquistato con fatica   l'abilita' professionale "rubando il mestiere" sin da quando, appena adolescenti, giungevano a bottega come "cite" o "picinine". Le "cite", che per i primi tre/quattro anni di lavoro ricevevano una paga poco piu' che simbolica, imparavano a tenere d'occhio le colleghe piu' sperimentate, al lavoro negli atelier per dieci, dodici ore al giorno, e anche di piu' durante i
picchi della stagione mondana che si registravano a primavera e a autunno. I compiti piu' semplici - cucire gli orli dei capi gia' confezionati - erano affidati al grado immediatamente superiore alle "cite", vale a dire le "sedute" o "fancell". Per vedersi affidare la lavorazione di abiti importanti - quelli da sera, in seta o velluto, per esempio - occorrevano anni di esperienza. Non bastava pero' essere svelte e abilissime ma madre natura doveva aver fornito l'interessata anche di "mani di velluto" , e non solo in senso metaforico. Infatti la "premie're", o capo sarta, prima di affidare abiti impegnativi a una novellina procedeva a un esame delle mani e delle dita che dovevano essere curatissime e lisce,
non sciupate dalle faccende domestiche, poiche' la seta esigeva un tatto delicatissimo e alla minima ruvidezza si rischiava di "tirare il filo".
 tanti sono i racconti, i film imperniati attorno a questo umile e laborioso mestiere, qui una serie di esperienze, di un periodo già avanzato.........

38 commenti:

  1. Interessante. Hai una vera passione per gli antichi mestieri... E bella la vecchia Singer di tua mamma!

    RispondiElimina
  2. ho amici a Torino che frequento regolarmente ma questa non l sapevo

    RispondiElimina
  3. Sono nata e vissuta fra DONNE che facevano le sarte, la loro vita era così fatta di sacrifici e di addestramento senza "stage" o "master".
    Spesso mi chiedo se - anch'io avessi seguito quella strada -forse adesso potrei essere una stilista di grido agli onori delle cronache.

    RispondiElimina
  4. Cara Adriana è bello sentire parlare della tua città, ogni città a i suoi ricordi e Torino ne ha molti, grazie di aver condiviso per noi tutti un racconto di vita di quei tempi.
    Buona domenica cara amica.
    Tomaso

    RispondiElimina
  5. Anchio tengo una singer ma a pedale, quante volte mia mamma mi faceva infilare il filo nell'ago, sono ricordi che non si cancelleranno mai!! buona domenica

    RispondiElimina
  6. Che bella la macchina da cucire di tua mamma, un tesoro da conservare gelosamente.
    Baci
    Rosa

    RispondiElimina
  7. grazie dei commenti di tutti, devo dire che anch'io ho fatto apprendistato di cucito, non proprio a quel livello, ma con tanti "punti molli" allora si usava questo punto per segnare le cuciture che si dovevano poi fare.
    Su quella macchina la mia mamma mi ha cucito tanti vestiti e anch'io ho partecipato cucendo quelli delle mie bambole, era molto più facile che con quella a pedali .

    RispondiElimina
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